It's early in the morning. Around 5:00 a.m. and on my way to the Gym. As light pours out of the eastern seas, millions of kitchens in Mexico begin to come alive with the pat-pat of tortilla making. In tiny villages smoke from cooking fires rises to greet the morning light.
A tsunami of coffee rushes west across the tierra. Café negro. Café con leche. Café with canela. Some will drink coffee from thick glasses, others from simple gourds or colorful clay cups. My friend, Felipe, and La Guapa Señora will soon be sharing their morning cafecito on a patio near Pátzcuaro.
This westward morning movement across Mexico is predictable like the rising of the sun. I am no longer certain whether the sun is following the early morning waking or if the waking is the result of the sun. Confused like an Aztec.The light from the east is nearing Mérida. My neighbor's cooking fire starts to send up its smoke. I smell coffee nearby. I am happy.
Merida's dogs are rugs on the sidewalk, flattened by the heat of the day. On my walk to the Santiago market I pass three such creatures. Not one of them barks at me. I step over a sleeping form and get no more reaction than the twitch of a tail.
Some expats complain about the fates of canines in Merida. Not me. I have never personally seen one abused. Siestas seem to be the rule of the day for them. They understand the heat and how to deal with it. Flattened until something moves them. Not unlike me.
At the market, Signora Andrea cuts up some papaya, watermelon and cantaloupe for me, also some jicama and orange slices along with some chili seasoning in a little bag. The two containers cost me 24 pesos and equal about 4 servings. It would be a little cheaper if I peeled and sliced my own fruit but that would involve stickiness and the attraction of ants. No clean up this way and I get to say “Hi” to Andrea every other day.
It’s a dog’s life for me.
Sabrina is a lovely lady who has a full time job during the week but can usually be found on Saturday nights at La Noche Mexicana and on Sunday mornings in Santa Lucia park selling food from one of the food stands. I first learned about Sabrina from a feature write-up in the New York Times. All of her food items are freshly prepared, inexpensive and quite good.

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